Studying in the Tarahumara

In the remote Chihuahua highlands of Mexico, the realities of poverty, isolation, and cartel violence cast a shadow over the indigenous Rarámuri community. Also known as the Tarahumara people, this native community faces some of Mexico's most challenging conditions, where access to education becomes both a lifeline and an act of resistance against systemic marginalization.

Yet, amidst these challenges, hope emerges in the form of education. In Tewecado Santa María de Guadalupe, a Jesuit boarding school nestled in the Sierra Madre mountains, 96 Rarámuri girls find sanctuary, sustenance, and an opportunity to learn. This documentary photography project captures the intersection of indigenous rights, educational access, and community resilience in one of Mexico's most vulnerable regions.

In a land where long walks to school through dangerous terrain are the norm and the area is controlled by drug cartels, the journey of education is fraught with obstacles that would deter most. The Sierra Tarahumara region, while breathtakingly beautiful, remains one of Mexico's most isolated and violence-affected areas, where indigenous communities struggle for basic services and protection from organized crime.

Yet, the resilience of these young Rarámuri women and the dedication of educators like Mother Superior Begonia Sáenz defy the odds. Through photojournalism, this project documents how the Jesuit educational mission provides not just academic learning, but cultural preservation, safe housing, and hope for indigenous girls who might otherwise face forced marriage, exploitation, or violence.

The boarding school serves as more than an educational institution—it represents a sanctuary where Rarámuri cultural identity is preserved while girls gain tools for navigating both their traditional world and modern Mexican society. The nuns and teachers work to maintain the delicate balance between respecting indigenous traditions and providing opportunities that can lift these young women out of cycles of poverty and violence.

This collaborative documentary project, done alongside photographer Santiago González, reveals the daily life, challenges, and dreams of indigenous students whose pursuit of education becomes an act of courage in a region where safety cannot be guaranteed.

Chihuahua, México. 2020.

Two years after this project was completed, the two Jesuit priests of Cerocahui, Father Javier Campos and Father Joaquín Mora, were brutally assassinated in their church by a local cartel leader, leaving the girls, the nuns, the community and the country wounded. Their deaths underscore the ongoing violence that makes educational work in the Sierra Tarahumara both essential and perilous.

A pupil wears her traditional raramuri skirt under her uniform. Her sandals, as usual are made of tires. - Paula González Gavilanes
A pupil wears her traditional raramuri skirt under her uniform. Her sandals, as usual are made of tires.
On a cold misty morning in the Sierra Tarahumara, the children living nearby head to school. - Paula González Gavilanes
On a cold misty morning in the Sierra Tarahumara, the children living nearby head to school.
This pupils are taught by teacher Sofía. She is also Raramuri, and studied in Tewecado as a child. - Paula González Gavilanes
This pupils are taught by teacher Sofía. She is also Raramuri, and studied in Tewecado as a child.
Some of the girls have rashes that they get from taking care of farm animals at home. - Paula González Gavilanes
Some of the girls have rashes that they get from taking care of farm animals at home.
Tewecado registers the families. Some parents can’t read or write, so they leave a fingerprint instead of signing. - Paula González Gavilanes
Tewecado registers the families. Some parents can’t read or write, so they leave a fingerprint instead of signing.
Mother Begonia is the only nun who drives. In a pickup truck she goes through the mountains to get food or supplies for the girls. - Paula González Gavilanes
Mother Begonia is the only nun who drives. In a pickup truck she goes through the mountains to get food or supplies for the girls.
Raramuris are historically some of the best runners the Mexico has seen. A couple of girls race in the playground. - Paula González Gavilanes
Raramuris are historically some of the best runners the Mexico has seen. A couple of girls race in the playground.
Here, food is a reason why parents keep their children in boarding schools , so they can guarantee they will eat three meals a day. - Paula González Gavilanes
Here, food is a reason why parents keep their children in boarding schools , so they can guarantee they will eat three meals a day.
They always leave the school accompanied by teachers. In a violent context, their safety is a priority. - Paula González Gavilanes
They always leave the school accompanied by teachers. In a violent context, their safety is a priority.
Doña Eustolia, 87, belongs to the first generation of girls who studied in Tewecado. She is the oldest person in Cerocahui. - Paula González Gavilanes
Doña Eustolia, 87, belongs to the first generation of girls who studied in Tewecado. She is the oldest person in Cerocahui.
Eustolia recalls that when the Jesuits arrived the isolated town had finally access to education. - Paula González Gavilanes
Eustolia recalls that when the Jesuits arrived the isolated town had finally access to education.
On Saturday mornings, the girls and the sisters do cleaning chores. - Paula González Gavilanes
On Saturday mornings, the girls and the sisters do cleaning chores.
Before bedtime, a group of girls has fun dancing. - Paula González Gavilanes
Before bedtime, a group of girls has fun dancing.
A pupil wears her traditional raramuri skirt under her uniform. Her sandals, as usual are made of tires. - Paula González Gavilanes
On a cold misty morning in the Sierra Tarahumara, the children living nearby head to school. - Paula González Gavilanes
This pupils are taught by teacher Sofía. She is also Raramuri, and studied in Tewecado as a child. - Paula González Gavilanes
Some of the girls have rashes that they get from taking care of farm animals at home. - Paula González Gavilanes
Tewecado registers the families. Some parents can’t read or write, so they leave a fingerprint instead of signing. - Paula González Gavilanes
Mother Begonia is the only nun who drives. In a pickup truck she goes through the mountains to get food or supplies for the girls. - Paula González Gavilanes
Raramuris are historically some of the best runners the Mexico has seen. A couple of girls race in the playground. - Paula González Gavilanes
Here, food is a reason why parents keep their children in boarding schools , so they can guarantee they will eat three meals a day. - Paula González Gavilanes
They always leave the school accompanied by teachers. In a violent context, their safety is a priority. - Paula González Gavilanes
Doña Eustolia, 87, belongs to the first generation of girls who studied in Tewecado. She is the oldest person in Cerocahui. - Paula González Gavilanes
Eustolia recalls that when the Jesuits arrived the isolated town had finally access to education. - Paula González Gavilanes
On Saturday mornings, the girls and the sisters do cleaning chores. - Paula González Gavilanes
Before bedtime, a group of girls has fun dancing. - Paula González Gavilanes
This investigative report on Rarámuri indigenous education was published in EL PAÍS. Read the full article on Tarahumara girls' boarding school experience. - Paula González Gavilanes
This investigative report on Rarámuri indigenous education was published in EL PAÍS. Read the full article on Tarahumara girls' boarding school experience.
Watch the documentary video about indigenous education in Chihuahua's Sierra Madre. - Paula González Gavilanes
Watch the documentary video about indigenous education in Chihuahua's Sierra Madre.

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